The future of fashion

The devastating coronavirus pandemic has truly infiltrated every area of society. It has tragically affected every industry, every business and every person (whether they themselves or a loved one has been struck with Covid-19)  in some shape or form. However one industry in particular has been severely, severely affected: the fashion industry. The question is has the industry been affected for better or for worse? Will the industry change? And what is the future for fashion?

It was during the fall 2020 fashion month season that the coronavirus began to rapidly circulate, consequently generating the drastic closing of numerous stores and boutiques, the cancellations of  many upcoming runway shows and major fashion events (such as the CFDA awards and the Met gala)  and leaving countless workers furloughed with some shops even having to file for bankruptcy. In short the Covid-19 pandemic has triggered an unfortunate series of  drastic financial and production losses in fashion which poses the question for both those in the industry and those outside peeking in with curiosity: what does all of this mean for the long-term and how is fashion going to adapt to survive in these unprecedented circumstances? 

It is particularly the logistics of the fashion weeks and runway shows that intrigue me. How will it all work? How will it be possible to hold these shows when the audience has to somehow stay socially distanced, as do the models on the catwalk? Especially when considering the intricate complications of this alongside quarantine rules, travel restrictions and different parts of the world being under lockdown, than it seems perceptibly impossible to believe fashion week will occur anywhere at all. And yet... multiple brands have proved this isn't true. Despite fashion weeks across the globe having been cancelled as a direct result of Covid-19 brands have built alternative ways of presenting their collections to the press and public such as attendees watching the show from home via livestreams instead of physically having to attend a venue where coronavirus could potentially be spread. 

This solution is a clever one and could suggest a fundamental change in how collections are delivered in the future. After all, it is the most probable long-term antidote to the problem of post-coronavirus runway shows. What could be easier than simply watching the collection being displayed through a series of fast-paced fashion films? However it is not without its faults. You could argue that watching the collections through a phone or laptop screen doesn't possess the same joy or visceral thrill as experiencing a show first-hand undoubtedly does. Many believe that what makes the clothes displayed so spectacular and exciting isn't the garments themselves but how the designer chooses to showcase them. A show can evoke emotions and ideas that otherwise would not be attached to the clothes and witnessing a show through livestream threatens to take this away, which could make the whole runway affair somewhat drab and less dimensional than if the collection were to be viewed in person.  This means either one of two things: that we, as consumers, need to learn not to purely rely on just the shows to inform our interpretations of the collections and find sufficient enjoyment in just the clothes themselves, or that this is not a good enough solution to move forward with in the fashion industry. It seems the latter is the more prominent answer with the negatives of this idea forming a long list. Undeniably, fashion weeks and runways shows are a massive (and some would suggest integral) section of the way fashion currently works. So many components of the industry are linked to the fashion weeks... in fact, one of the main problems that crop up with runway shows via livestreams is the fact that certain sectors within the industry (such as streetstyle photography) rely signifigantly on the fashion weeks. If the runway shows were to be permanently shown online than these sectors would struggle to survive.

It is clear that what will happen to fashion weeks and runway shows poses a massive question mark in regards to the future. However, if there are any lessons to take away from this time (and I believe there is) it's that the industry needs a change- and that it has needed a change for a long time now. It is simply not sustainable for things to carry on the way they are with houses churning out multiple collections for the fast-paced seasons (fall/winter, spring/summer, resort, pre) each year.You could wonder if the reason for the industry not changing for so long is based on an outdated business model wholly focused on economic gain rather than the creativity and beauty of fashion. Recently I was listening to one of my favourite podcasts 'Fashion No Filter' by Camille Charriere and Monica Ainley and they talked about how fashion may be improved if the pressure of creating so many collections a year was removed from designers. In the music industry it's not expected of artists to hurriedly produce a specific number of albums a year. Rather the musician is given time to perfect their creations- and this is a system which could be greatly beneficial to fashion. Rather than having a set period of runway shows and a certain number of seasons a designer needs to design for, maybe it would be better if designers were really given the time they needed to birth something special and meaningful rather than just having their creativity forced? That way they could choose when to display collections and collections would grow more strong and powerful.

At the end of the day, whatever solution the industry finds it's important to take in to consideration all the positive sectors and facets of the industry today so that nobody is left behind and so that fashion can still continue to thrive in all it's magnificent glory- just in a healthier, more sustainable manner.

By Frances Hudson

 

Thoughts on boredom

I don't know about you but in the recent long, dwindling hours of the lock down days caused by the devastating and tragic Covid-19 a particular emotion has gripped the nation- the world, in fact- that has led to a strange discovery. Aside from the obvious and understandable fear that has clamped down on everybody of the deadly coronavirus that has rapidly spread across the globe like wildfire, there is another emotion festering underneath the surface of the general population... boredom!

A lazy, nonchalant boredom which has lingered in the air for the long duration of confinement. With restrictions aplenty and many jobs temporarily put on hold, lock down meant many were left at home -not allowed to leave for the foreseeable future- with no idea of what to do or how to fill the time. In other words: bored. And although boredom is... well, boring... I've discovered over the course of the (seemingly never-ending) time we spent confined in our homes that boredom is actually a very useful and productive tool. 

Of course, it goes without saying that lock down was an extremely stressful time for everyone and nobody should have felt pressurised to be constantly creating or producing or thinking. The most important aspect of lock down (or any other difficult, emotional experience) should be centred on people's safety and mental health. Also many had important priorities that needed to be placed at the top of the to-do list such as home-schooling, working from home, caring for family, ect. Yet there was still a massive percentage of the nation who felt bored in lock down, who regularly found themselves splayed on the sofa having previously exhausted all viable television options showing, repeating the glum mantra of 'I'm so bored, I have nothing to do,I'm so BORED, there's absolutely nothing to do'. 

Previously I would've found this boredom challenging and tedious, allowing it to accumulate into an angry ball of sadness and frustration in the pit of my stomach which would leave me restless and unsatisfied for the rest of the day. But now I have come to see boredom for what it really is: a trusty ally, an old pal, a buddy to lean on in times of need. For it is out of boredom that some of the world's most amazing, inspiring creations have been born. Art and music and fashion and books all synonymous with their their common catalyst. The tiny, flickering ember of boredom nagging away at a person until suddenly it triggers a reaction (an abrupt and magical chemical collision of sorts) and a flame is ignited, eventually morphing into a roaring fire of passion and creativity. Boredom spurs us on. It encourages us to be creative, to sing, to dance, to draw, to write. The problem is that boredom is often seen as a bad thing to try and avoid but this just simply isn't the case. In fact it is such a wondrous device of creation that it's a shock so many go out of their way to prevent it! 

Now that we're out of confinement boredom may not be such a frequent emotion that we're faced with. However it will undoubtedly still play some sort of role in our lives, occasionally cropping up from time to time. I think it's important to remember the way that boredom can be positively manifested and used for the better. Rather than just a swirling whirlwind of impending doom, pent-up anger and burning hot hopelessness it is one of the most powerful tools we have, as humans, in our inventory. Next time the cold beast of boredom hits us in the face and attempts to stare us down with it's dead, glazed eyes we mustn't run away screaming. Instead we should stand our ground and question 'what could I do with this time instead of spiralling into a boredom-fuelled existential dread?' and then we should do that thing, whatever it may be: gardening or baking or cycling or painting or writing a letter to your Gran or choreographing a complicated dance routine to the theme tune of the great British bake off. Than we can glance back at the cold beast of boredom and realise in retrospect that all along the beast was actually a cute, fluffy, baby dragon that only ever wanted to help us out in the first place by secretly coercing us into doing something positive with our time.

In short boredom is seen as scary when really it's an incredibly useful, positive tool when dealt with wisely. 

By Frances Hudson

Nepotism in fashion

There's a recurring theme being constantly repeated between the pages of glossy magazines and strutting down the catwalks of the major fashion brands. You may not have noticed it. It may not have even occurred to you-it is, after all, so ingrained in fashion (amongst other creative industries) that it has became the norm. I am, of course, talking about the nepotism that undeniably exists in the world of fashion today.If you're looking for examples of nepotism in fashion all you have to do is reminisce on the previous couple of fashion awards. For the last 5 years the 'model of the year award' nominations have been dominated by a similar selection of coveted 'mini-me's'.  In fact, it almost seems quite inevitable, doesn't it? And it doesn't stop there. The fashion industry is rampant with nepotism. It has been consumed by the nostalgic surnames and genetically familiar faces of celebrity offspring. It's not just modelling that nepotism in fashion caters for either! Whether it's designing or photography, nepotism is a surefire way to break into fashion.

It's easy to not register this nepotism, but take a moment to glance at the latest ad campaigns, magazine covers and catwalks and you'll undoubtedly discover an unwarranted multitude of the rich and famous's offspring. It seems to be that the new generation of supermodels don't have to possess the determination, perseverance and grit that other models have had to cultivate, nor do they need to put in the time or effort that most do to infiltrate the impenetrable modelling business. In fact, most of the current supermodels today virtually didn't have to do anything to achieve their super successful careers in one of the most unreachable and toughest industries in the world. Nope... instead the sons and daughters of the rich and elite just sat back, relaxed and reaped the rewards of their famous surnames.... and inevitably, will continue to do so. Now obviously, the aforementioned sons and daughters of the rich and elite have been blessed with exceptional genetic make-ups that render them suitable candidates for the role of model. They all have pretty faces and textbook 'perfect' bodies. It's thus suffice to say that I am in no way trying to say that they aren't beautiful. I am, however, commenting that they have had to work nowhere near as hard to thrive in fashion as others have had to work to survive in fashion. It poses the question: would their star-studded careers be anywhere near as impressive without the celebrity parents and the preceding glamorous reputations? The answer is perhaps an almost definite, resounding no. 

Modelling has drastically evolved over time, so much so that it appears a different world to the modelling landscape in the 90's. Gone is the golden age of the supermodel where the common theme between the biggest models was the hard work and dedication they'd put into building up their careers. Whether discovered at an airport, shopping in Covent garden or clubbing in Dusseldorf like some of the most renowned 90's supermodels  the 'rags to riches' story still had to consist of lots of commitment from the models themselves.

I suppose you're wondering why any of this matters? Why should we care? nepotism has always existed- and maybe always will exist- both in and outside of fashion. Why is it suddenly such a big deal? well, i'll tell you why. It's beginning to shift the dimensions of fashion, to irreparably change things, to alter the purpose and meaning of the industry- and in a rather sinister, negative way. Whilst once fashion was used as a creative means of expressing ones self and as a way of conveying important messages through an art form it is now slowly becoming an industry revolving around the blithe, old phrase 'it's not what you know... it's who you know'. We are now at a point where there are two potential futures waiting ahead for fashion. One consists of an industry that no longer fosters or encourages new talent, instead preferring to opt for those already well-established with legions of adoring fans. After all, it doesn't take long to work out that nepotism is an easier option for brands (from a business point of view, at least). Take a young creative only just starting to forge their path in fashion ...the likelihood is that they are are unknown -or even if they are known their following would probably appear tiny in comparison to the following of the likes of current supermodels or creators who are successful on the merits of nepotism. It's understandable that brands would choose someone with an already built-in social media following and a plethora of fans to grace their social media pages - rather than somebody just starting out- in the knowledge that people will likely be more interested in a mini-me celeb than an unknown face. Furthermore many young, talented creatives with fresh, new ideas wanting a job in fashion may lose hope and will decide to choose a less tumultuous, difficult or unpredictable career where 'moving through the ranks' is easier and overall safer.

 

It can be argued that the constant repetition of the same faces, consistently recycled through each catwalk, cover and campaign is responsible for the slow yet sure decline of creativity in fashion. When all we see is the same collection of models and creatives rolled out in front of us we inevitably get bored with the repeated pattern, the pattern that is so repetitive that it has transcended through generations (via famous parents). There's a place for nepotism- it is after all completely understandable. Nepotism is just parents wanting the best opportunities and chances for their children. You can't begrudge them for that. It's instinct,simple human nature- but it shouldn't take up every crevice and corner of fashion. There needs to be space for new individuals to inject their creativity and ideas into the industry. It's the only way to keep fashion passionate and vibrant and colourful and endlessly exciting. In a society where the privileged become more privileged and whether or not you are good enough for the job is judged by elitism instead of tenacity and talent, it is no wonder so many are tempted to opt for 'safer' professions. What with creative industries already inaccessible to many, we should be encouraging new talent instead of just dementedly pushing celebrity offspring to the forefront in some mad publicity stunt.

It goes without saying that this is not the fault of the people who have benefited from nepotism. No. We should not blame them- it is the industry that is relying on nepotism. Perhaps this is out of laziness, perhaps it's fear of the unknown and what will come next in fashion, perhaps it's the desire of 'safeness'. But do we really want a fashion that is 'safe'? scared to push limits, change boundaries? because honestly... I don't think we do. 

By Frances Hudson