Saturday 1 August 2020

Nepotism in fashion


There's a recurring theme being constantly repeated between the pages of glossy magazines and strutting down the catwalks of the major fashion brands. You may not have noticed it. It may not have even occurred to you-it is, after all, so ingrained in fashion (amongst other creative industries) that it has became the norm. I am, of course, talking about the nepotism that undeniably exists in the world of fashion today.If you're looking for examples of nepotism in fashion all you have to do is reminisce on the previous couple of fashion awards. For the last 5 years the 'model of the year award' nominations have been dominated by a similar selection of coveted 'mini-me's'.  In fact, it almost seems quite inevitable, doesn't it? And it doesn't stop there. The fashion industry is rampant with nepotism. It has been consumed by the nostalgic surnames and genetically familiar faces of celebrity offspring. It's not just modelling that nepotism in fashion caters for either! Whether it's designing or photography, nepotism is a surefire way to break into fashion.

It's easy to not register this nepotism, but take a moment to glance at the latest ad campaigns, magazine covers and catwalks and you'll undoubtedly discover an unwarranted multitude of the rich and famous's offspring. It seems to be that the new generation of supermodels don't have to possess the determination, perseverance and grit that other models have had to cultivate, nor do they need to put in the time or effort that most do to infiltrate the impenetrable modelling business. In fact, most of the current supermodels today virtually didn't have to do anything to achieve their super successful careers in one of the most unreachable and toughest industries in the world. Nope... instead the sons and daughters of the rich and elite just sat back, relaxed and reaped the rewards of their famous surnames.... and inevitably, will continue to do so. Now obviously, the aforementioned sons and daughters of the rich and elite have been blessed with exceptional genetic make-ups that render them suitable candidates for the role of model. They all have pretty faces and textbook 'perfect' bodies. It's thus suffice to say that I am in no way trying to say that they aren't beautiful. I am, however, commenting that they have had to work nowhere near as hard to thrive in fashion as others have had to work to survive in fashion. It poses the question: would their star-studded careers be anywhere near as impressive without the celebrity parents and the preceding glamorous reputations? The answer is perhaps an almost definite, resounding no. 

Modelling has drastically evolved over time, so much so that it appears a different world to the modelling landscape in the 90's. Gone is the golden age of the supermodel where the common theme between the biggest models was the hard work and dedication they'd put into building up their careers. Whether discovered at an airport, shopping in Covent garden or clubbing in Dusseldorf like some of the most renowned 90's supermodels  the 'rags to riches' story still had to consist of lots of commitment from the models themselves.

I suppose you're wondering why any of this matters? Why should we care? nepotism has always existed- and maybe always will exist- both in and outside of fashion. Why is it suddenly such a big deal? well, i'll tell you why. It's beginning to shift the dimensions of fashion, to irreparably change things, to alter the purpose and meaning of the industry- and in a rather sinister, negative way. Whilst once fashion was used as a creative means of expressing ones self and as a way of conveying important messages through an art form it is now slowly becoming an industry revolving around the blithe, old phrase 'it's not what you know... it's who you know'. We are now at a point where there are two potential futures waiting ahead for fashion. One consists of an industry that no longer fosters or encourages new talent, instead preferring to opt for those already well-established with legions of adoring fans. After all, it doesn't take long to work out that nepotism is an easier option for brands (from a business point of view, at least). Take a young creative only just starting to forge their path in fashion ...the likelihood is that they are are unknown -or even if they are known their following would probably appear tiny in comparison to the following of the likes of current supermodels or creators who are successful on the merits of nepotism. It's understandable that brands would choose someone with an already built-in social media following and a plethora of fans to grace their social media pages - rather than somebody just starting out- in the knowledge that people will likely be more interested in a mini-me celeb than an unknown face. Furthermore many young, talented creatives with fresh, new ideas wanting a job in fashion may lose hope and will decide to choose a less tumultuous, difficult or unpredictable career where 'moving through the ranks' is easier and overall safer.
 
It can be argued that the constant repetition of the same faces, consistently recycled through each catwalk, cover and campaign is responsible for the slow yet sure decline of creativity in fashion. When all we see is the same collection of models and creatives rolled out in front of us we inevitably get bored with the repeated pattern, the pattern that is so repetitive that it has transcended through generations (via famous parents). There's a place for nepotism- it is after all completely understandable. Nepotism is just parents wanting the best opportunities and chances for their children. You can't begrudge them for that. It's instinct,simple human nature- but it shouldn't take up every crevice and corner of fashion. There needs to be space for new individuals to inject their creativity and ideas into the industry. It's the only way to keep fashion passionate and vibrant and colourful and endlessly exciting. In a society where the privileged become more privileged and whether or not you are good enough for the job is judged by elitism instead of tenacity and talent, it is no wonder so many are tempted to opt for 'safer' professions. What with creative industries already inaccessible to many, we should be encouraging new talent instead of just dementedly pushing celebrity offspring to the forefront in some mad publicity stunt.

It goes without saying that this is not the fault of the people who have benefited from nepotism. No. We should not blame them- it is the industry that is relying on nepotism. Perhaps this is out of laziness, perhaps it's fear of the unknown and what will come next in fashion, perhaps it's the desire of 'safeness'. But do we really want a fashion that is 'safe'? scared to push limits, change boundaries? because honestly... I don't think we do. 

By Frances Hudson






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